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We tackled the Dales Way, supposedly the easiest long-distance walk in Britain. The first two days were a honeymoon: warm May days by the banks of the peat brown river Wharfe. Wilder scenery brought wilder weather. Struggling on in fog ad rain, past the iconic Ribblehead railway viaduct, we eventually turned west towards the Lake District. The looming bulk of the fells announced our arrival at Lake Windermere. Only 83 miles from Ilkley, but it felt as though we had climbed Mount Everest.
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